Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit

Whether it is a penchant for Watership down or fond memories of family pets long ago interred in parents gardens, it seems many of us are unwilling to prepare and consume rabbit on compassionate grounds. I admit they are incredibly cute creatures; from the exaggerated, docile eyes, to the silk like feel of their pelts, they are the apotheosis of fluffiness, a point only punctuated by their pom-pom styled tails. However, if you learn to see beyond this sentimentality you will be rewarded with one of the finest and most versatile meats available.

As it happens rabbits don’t do themselves many favours beyond their appearance. They are a pest with an appetite for both food and reproduction so voracious that the combination has in the past brought the entire crop of a country to the brink of ruin. Talk to any farmer and they will be quite happy for you to shoot rabbits on their land until your trigger finger falls limp from overuse. Apart from their pest like habits it is also extremely easy to see past the fluff factor. If you purchase your rabbit direct from the butcher you will be forgiven for believing he has handed you an ugly alien from another planet. Rabbits really are proof that beauty can be only fur deep.

However, their well documented ability to reproduce has in the past been viewed as beneficial and has seen this animal, originally native only to Morocco and Iberia pop up all over the World. It was the Romans who first realized the benefit of a tasty animal that could multiply quickly, hence they took it with them to Italy and then around the rest of Europe helping to feed their soldiers and growing populations. It is thought that it was the Normans who were the first to show the British and Irish the doe-eyed delicacy, and it didn’t stop there: It has been documented that sailors would often release a mating pair of rabbits on to islands that they passed in the knowledge there would be a familiar and bountiful crop on their return journey. That is why we now find rabbits aplenty in Australasia and South America.

FTLOL loves rabbit. The picture to the right shows the main parts of a rabbit, with the two large hind legs, the two smaller legs attached to the shoulder, the loin, best end and then the liver and kidneys. All of it is delicious. From the tough hind legs which work beautifully when cooked over a long period of time to the delicate loins that can be fried off in seconds, rabbit offers the chef so many different options.  It is this gastronomic agilty that has seen rabbit gradually work its’ way back on to the menus of many a top eatery and once again become fashionable.

To get you started here are 3 recipes which use the rabbit in different ways, from the very simple to a slightly more complicated dish we hope these will just be a springboard to your adventures in the Leporidaic warren.

Rabbit and Tarragon Fricassee  - serves 4-6

Ingredients

3tbsp sunflower oil
3tbsp butter
1 x rabbit jointed – 2 x legs, 2 x shoulders, 2 x loins trimmed
1 x large onion, peeled and finely diced
2 x carrots, peeled and finely diced
2 x sticks of celery, finely diced
½ bunch of tarragon, leaves and stalks separated
1 x bay leaf
½ glass white wine
500-1000ml cold water
3 x potatoes, peeled and chopped into chunks
100ml double cream
1-2tbsp wholegrain mustard

Method

Heat half of the oil and butter over a high heat in a heavy based casserole dish. Season the pieces of rabbit well. Once the butter has melted and is bubbling in the oil add the pieces of rabbit (may have to done in stages). Fry for 2-3mins on either side until a dark brown colour is reached. Remove the browned pieces of meat to a plate.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining butter and oil. Again wait till the butter has melted.  Add the onions, carrots and celery. Sweat over a medium heat for 4-5mins. Return the rabbit, reserving the browned loins, to the casserole dish along with the tarragon stalks and bay leaf. Increase the heat to maximum.

Add the white wine and reduce over a high heat until almost all evaporated. Pour in the water. The water should cover the rabbit meat easily. At this point skim the surface for any fats that rise. Bring the water to the boil, and then reduce the casserole to a simmer. Skim again. Simmer for about 35-45mis until the leg meat is tender and falling off the bone.

Remove the rabbit and the tarragon stalks from the liquid and leave to cool on a plate. Add the potatoes to the liquid and continue to simmer liquid to cook potatoes but also to reduce.

Once cool enough to handle remove the meat from the bones, discarding the bones. Chop the reserved loins into bite – sized chunks.

Once the potatoes are just tender add the cream. At this point the liquid should have reduced by about a third. If not remove the potatoes and continue to simmer the liquid until it has reduced sufficiently. Add the wholegrain mustard and season to taste.

Replace the picked rabbit meat along with the chopped loin pieces into the simmering creamy casserole. Add the tarragon leaves, and check seasoning before serving.

Rabbit Ragout with wet Polenta – serves 4-6

Ingredients

For the rabbit
4-6tbsp olive oil
1 x rabbit jointed 2 x legs, 2 x shoulders, 1 x saddle split in two
2 x red onions, peeled and sliced thinly
3 x cloves of garlic, peeled and finely diced
3 x sticks of celery, roughly diced
½ bunch of basil, leaves and stalks separated
2-3 sprigs of thyme
50ml balsamic vinegar
1 x glass of red wine
2 x tins of chopped tomato
200ml water
1tbsp brown sugar

For the polenta
150g polenta
800ml water
200g parmesan, grated
50g butter
Rocket to serve

Method

Heat some of the oil in a heavy based casserole dish over a high heat. Season the pieces of rabbit well. Add half of the rabbit pieces to the pan. Cook for about 2-3mins on each side until a rich golden brown colour is reached. Remove the pieces to a plate and repeat with the remaining pieces.

Reduce the heat to medium, pour in the remaining oil and add the onions. Cook until the onions have gone soft, and are lightly coloured, this should take about 6-10mins. Add the garlic and the celery. Stir and cook through for another 3mins before adding the basil stalks and thyme sprigs.

Increase the heat to maximum and add the balsamic vinegar. Reduce to almost nothing. Add the red wine and again reduce to almost nothing. Pour in the tomatoes and water. Bring to a simmer before adding the brown sugar, and the rested rabbit pieces.

Simmer the sauce for about 35mins until it has reduced by about a third and all the rabbit is cooked through and tender. (If the sauce is becoming dry just add a little water).

Remove the rabbit pieces from the sauce and. Blitz the sauce with a stick blender until a smooth consistency is reached. Replace the rabbit into the sauce.

For the polenta

Bring the water to the boil in a large pan. Once boiling add the dried polenta. Reduce the heat to a low flame and vigorously mix the polenta until it is fully cooked through, about 3-4mins. Add the parmesan, butter, salt and pepper.

Serve the rabbit immediately with generous amounts of polenta all topped with rocket.

Rabbit and Scallop Parpadelle – serves 4

This is the most complicated of the recipes, but when executed properly shows off the cheapest and most expensive parts of both the scallop and rabbit. Do not take preparation of this dish lightly, you will need to start 6 hours before service and be a confident chef to pull off the presentation perfectly. However once you have the knack it is a great dinner party dish because it can be prepared well in advance.

Ingredients

6 x scallops, roe separated from flesh
4 x rabbit loins
8-10 slices of pancetta
3-4tbsp double cream
Small bunch of chives, finely sliced
A squeeze of lemon juice
1tbsp Dijon mustard
A knob of butter
3tbsp olive oil
2 x rabbits liver, sinew removed and diced into small pieces
Parpadelle for 4 people
Small bunch of parsley, leaves only

Method

Pre-heat the oven to the lowest possible temperature. This should be between 50°c and 75°c.

Place the removed scallop roes on to a non stick baking tray. Place in the oven. They need to be left until they are fully dehydrated, which can take up to 6 hours. However with a higher heat and more surveillance they can be done in a shorter period. They are ready when they transform to a deep crimson colour, have halved in sized and can be snapped easily in two. Once they have reached this stage place them in a pestle and mortar with just a touch of salt and crush till you reach a powder consistency. Reserve.

Place the blade of your small food processor into the freezer.

Take one of the loins. Place it in front of you lengthways. Slice the loin along the length, but do not cut all the way through. You should now be able to open the meat up like a “book”. Place the meat flat between two pieces of cling film and lightly bash until you are left with a flat, square, quite thin piece of meat. Reserve whilst you repeat the process with the remaining 3 loins. Place them on a plate and in the fridge until ready to use.

Replace the blade into the food processor. Add the scallops and pulse (it is very important to only pulse the blade, if not the heat created by the blade will begin to cook the scallop meat rendering it tough. This is why the extra precaution of placing the blade in the freezer is also necessary) till a coarse consistency is reached. Add the lemon juice, the chives, seasoning and half of the cream. Pulse again until all ingredients are incorporated. You are trying to reach a thick mousse like consistency. If not smooth enough then add the rest of the cream. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag and place in fridge whilst you return to the loins.

Slice the pancetta slices in half horizontally. Place four of the pieces side by side on a sheet of cling film, then lay one of the batted out loins on top.  The loins should fit quite almost exactly on to the pancetta pieces. If they overhang then just trim down to size.

Brush the loin very lightly with Dijon mustard and then season. Lay the rabbit loin horizontally facing you. Remove the mousse from the fridge and pipe a generous amount of mousse along the center of the loin.

Pick up the piece of cling film nearest to you and delicately fold it over so the rabbit loin envelops the mousse with the entirety being wrapped in pancetta. At this point you should be able to tuck the enveloping half of the cling film under the meat turning it into a sausage. This process may take a couple of tries to perfect but is well worth the practice.

Once a loose sausage shape has been formed take the excess cling film from one side and twist it until it becomes tight against the side of the meat. Tie a knot in the cling film. Hold the cling film excess on the other side and repeat the process, ensuring you are left with a very neat, tightly wrapped sausage shape. Roll out another piece of cling film and tightly roll the sausage shape again in the second layer to make it full water tight. Repeat the process with the remaining pieces of meat.

Heat a large pan of water to a point where it is just starting to simmer. Add the wrapped loins and poach gently for 12mins. Remove the “sausages” in to ice cold water and leave till completely cooled through.

Boil the pasta until it is just al denté, drain and reserve. Whilst the pasta is boiling heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. When it is smoking add the chopped liver. Cook over a high heat till just lightly browned. Add the cooked pasta, toss to completely mix with the liver and oil. Add the scallop powder, reserving just a little for presentation, season and reserve.

Heat the butter till it begins to foam over a medium to high heat. Remove the “sausages” from the fridge and unwrap them. Place them into the foaming butter. Cook the “sausages” until they are browned on the outside. Remove and slice into rounds.

Add the parsley to the pasta and distribute amongst the plates. Top each pile of pasta with the meat and sprinkle over some of the magical scallop roe powder.